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Tank Inspection

The fuel tank? Probably the most forgotten piece of equipment onboard.


Only when we smell diesel, or see a drip from here or there, or the bilge is full of diesel, do we look at our fuel tank, and realise we have a serious problem. Sometimes resulting in an expensive re-fit. If your engine won’t start, runs erratically or even worse stops you need to inspect your fuel system.
 
       
 

By following a few simple rules the life of your fuel tank can be extended.

1. Ensure that the tank is correctly mounted on a level flat surface easily capable of bearing the mass of the tank when full of fuel. Usually there is a layer of foam under the tank to take up any irregularities.

2. Ensure that any straps are tightened adequately to prevent movement and if rubber strip is fitted under them that this is not perished.

3. Inspect any fittings for seepage and tighten or replace as required.

4. Ensure the fuel tank is earthed/ bonded to the boat’s structure and engines correctly ( in order to eliminate electrolysis ) Also ensure that the fuel tank is electrically earthed to the fuel filler to reduce the build up of static electricity when filling with fuel.

5. Keep the fuel tank as full as possible, during periods when not in use, to minimise condensation and thus potential for contamination.

6. Ensure the fuel tank you purchase is fully baffled to minimise slopping and aeration, and disturbing debris which may form on the bottom.

7. Ensure you buy your fuel from a reputable source that sells large volumes as fuel does degenerate and attract moisture which, particularly with diesel, will harm your engine unless removed.

8. Ensure that the filter and water separator in the fuel line to the engine is kept clean and regularly inspected/ changed to collect any debris or water from the tank prior to it entering the engine

9. Every year if possible fully pump out the bottom layer of fuel, water & debris. If you have an inspection hatch in the tank remove it to have a look at the insides of the bottom of the tank and try to collect any unwanted particles.

10. If possible start every season with fresh clean filtered fuel and a biocide additive, (see below).

11. If you have a diesel heater run it periodically to keep the fuel fresh in the line to the heater and don’t forget to inspect it’s filter periodically.

12. If your tank sits in the bilge, as in some RIBS, don’t let it sit in salt water if it is untreated aluminium as it will corrode. If you find this remove the tank and get it inspected for leaks. You may be able to have it powder coated or painted if the corrosion is not too far advanced otherwise it will need to be replaced.

 

Micro biological contamination

Water collecting in the bottom of your fuel tank can be colonised by micro- organisms, these actually live in the water and feed on the Diesel.

If the conditions are right these micro-organisms multiply causing the slimy debris we often see, this will block fuel filters and starve your engine of fuel. This bacteria will, if left, in time corrode the base of your fuel tank.

The best method to deal with this problem is to drain and fully clean the inside of the tank and re fill with clean fuel, the fuel tank should be treated with a biocide at least once a season, your local chandler should be able to help you with this. There are many brands on the market all of whom extort various benefits, and most of whom do the same thing.

An alternative now available is fuel cleaning where a portable fuel filtration system is set up adjacent to your boat which pumps out the fuel from the tank filters and cleans it and returns it into the tank. This service should also be offered in conjunction with a subsequent biocide treatment.